{"id":3221,"date":"2026-05-27T16:22:01","date_gmt":"2026-05-27T16:22:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.expressdoorsdirect.co.uk\/blog\/?p=3221"},"modified":"2026-06-10T09:38:59","modified_gmt":"2026-06-10T09:38:59","slug":"choosing-the-right-door-for-the-job-a-practical-guide-for-uk-tradies","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.expressdoorsdirect.co.uk\/blog\/choosing-the-right-door-for-the-job-a-practical-guide-for-uk-tradies\/","title":{"rendered":"Choosing the Right Door for the Job: A Practical Guide for UK Tradies"},"content":{"rendered":"

Last updated on June 10th, 2026 at 09:38 am<\/p>\n

Not every door is right for every job. Sounds obvious doesn’t it, but it\u2019s where plenty of callbacks, delays and awkward customer conversations begin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A door might look fine online, but if the core is wrong, the trimming allowance is too tight, the fire rating doesn\u2019t match the needs of the job or the finish needs more prep than expected, it can turn a straightforward fit into a headache.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In this guide, we dig deeper for joiners, builders, carpenters and seasoned renovationators who need clear, useful answers. We\u2019ll look at which doors suit which jobs, what to check before ordering, where fire doors matter and how to avoid some of the usual traps.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As Matt Shaw, Technical Director here at Express Doors Direct, explains: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

“The right door isn\u2019t just the one that looks the part. It\u2019s the one that fits the opening, suits the room, meets the spec and doesn\u2019t cause problems once you\u2019re on site.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Start With the Job, Not the Door<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Before choosing a door, start with the job itself. Where is the door going? Is it internal or external? Does it need to be fire-rated? Is the opening standard, or has someone been creative with the previous frame? Does the customer want painted, oak, glazed or are they just looking for something more practical?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Those questions matter because the \u201cbest\u201d door changes depending on the situation. A lightweight hollow core door might be fine for a cupboard or a basic rental refresh. Whereas it\u2019s not always the right call for a busy hallway, family home or home office where the customer wants something that feels solid and cuts down noise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The same applies to glazed doors. They\u2019re brilliant for bringing light into darker spaces, but they won\u2019t suit every bedroom or bathroom unless privacy glass is used. Start with how the space is used, then choose the door that fits the brief.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Hallway<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Internal Doors: What Works Where?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Internal doors do more than close off a room. They can affect privacy, light, sound, durability and how finished a property feels once the work is done.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hollow Core Doors<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Lightweight hollow core doors<\/a> are affordable and definitely useful on price-sensitive jobs. They often use a honeycomb-style internal structure, which keeps the weight and cost down.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

They can work particularly well for cupboards, low-traffic rooms, quick landlord refreshes and budget refurbs where cost matters more than feel. The trade-off is that they\u2019re less durable, less effective at reducing sound and easier to damage than solid core or engineered alternatives.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Are hollow core doors worth fitting?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Yes, in the right place. Hollow core doors are useful when the budget is tight and the door won\u2019t take heavy daily use. For bedrooms, home offices, family homes and higher-traffic areas, a solid core door is usually the better long-term choice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Solid Core Doors<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Solid core doors<\/a> are heavier, stronger and more substantial. Customers often notice the difference as soon as they open and close one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

They\u2019re a good choice for bedrooms and bathrooms, for example, where sound dampening and privacy are useful, as well as living rooms, home offices, busy family homes and better-quality renovations. The extra weight can mean more careful handling and more considered hinges are needed, but the end result usually feels better and performs better, particularly where sound reduction matters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As Matt puts it:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

\u201cIf the customer says they want something that feels better than what they\u2019ve already got, solid core is usually where you\u2019d start. It feels more substantial, reduces sound better and gives a better finish once hung properly.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Engineered Doors<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Engineered doors are built from layered timber or composite materials to intentionally improve stability. That helps reduce the risk of warping, twisting and movement caused by changes in temperature or humidity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

They\u2019re a smart choice when the customer wants a reliable long-term result, especially across multiple rooms. They\u2019re also useful on jobs where consistency matters, because engineered construction usually gives a more predictable product than cheaper timber construction.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What is the difference between solid core and engineered doors?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

A solid core door describes the dense internal construction, while engineered refers to the way the door is made overall. Some doors can be both solid core and engineered, giving you weight, strength and better resistance to movement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Choosing Doors by Room<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

The easiest way to choose the right internal door is to think about the room first.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For bedrooms, privacy and sound reduction are usually the main priorities. Solid core doors work well here because they feel more substantial than lightweight alternatives. Oak, white primed, prefinished and shaker-style doors<\/a> are all solid choices depending on the interior look the customer wants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Can you fit any internal door in a bathroom?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Bathrooms and en-suites need a door that offers privacy and can deal with moisture. Most internal doors can be fitted to a bathroom, but finishing and material both matter. If the door is unfinished or primed, you must make sure all edges are properly sealed to reduce moisture-related problems as timber doors can warp in humid conditions over time. While engineered wood offers better stability with a similar look to solid wood, the same still applies here, so don’t think you can get away with not finishing them properly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Likewise for kitchens, practicality and safety often come into play, too. In some layouts, especially where the kitchen opens onto an escape route, a fire-rated door may be needed, but kitchens can be humid places so the same rules apply about sealing against moisture ingress. The absolute last thing you want is a fire door that doesn\u2019t perform properly<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another thing to consider here is matching doors across these spaces can really make the whole property feel more finished. Mixed styles, mismatched handles and inconsistent finishes can make even decent work look rushed, so it\u2019s important to consider a range that can cover all bases.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Talking of fire doors\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fire Doors: Don\u2019t Guess the Spec<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Fire doors<\/a> need more attention than standard internal doors because they\u2019re part of a whole tested system, not just a heavier door leaf.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A compliant fire door setup depends on the door leaf, frame or lining, intumescent strips, smoke seals where needed, fire-rated hinges, suitable latches or locks, correct gaps and compatible glazing if the door is glazed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

You\u2019ll find you might need to fit fire doors in loft conversions, integral garages, three-storey homes, flats, HMOs, on certain escape routes and in some rental or commercial settings. The exact needs will all depend on the property, layout and work being carried out. You\u2019ll need to be conscious of the fire rating you choose too, one space may only need FD30 rated fire doors, where another would benefit from FD60.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Matt says: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

\u201cWith fire doors, don\u2019t guess. Check the building control requirements, check the door rating, check the hardware, check the frame and check the fitting instructions. More than once if you have to. A fire door only does its job if the full setup is right.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Can I fit a fire door leaf into an existing frame?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Sometimes, but not always. The frame, seals, hinges, latch and gaps all matter. If the job needs a compliant fire door, check the manufacturer\u2019s guidance and the project requirements before fitting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Are FD30 fire doors required in all homes?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

No. Standard two-storey houses do not automatically need every internal door to be FD30. Fire door requirements depend on the layout, use of the property and any building work being carried out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

External Doors: Security, Weather and Heat Loss Matter<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

External doors<\/a> have a harder job to do than internal doors. Entrance doors need to balance weather resistance, security and insulation… all while looking sexy from the outside as they do it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For external doors, the key checks are material, U-value, security rating, locking system, weather seals, threshold type, glazing specification and opening direction. A lower U-value means better insulation. If the door is being fitted as part of building work, compliance may also need checking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Energy Saving Trust<\/a> says doors and windows can account for between 10% and 20% of heat loss in a typical home, so getting it right is vital when dealing with our wonderful weather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Timber External Doors<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Timber external doors such as oak doors<\/a>, are most often chosen as front doors for traditional homes, period properties and heritage-style projects. They look good and can suit older properties well, but they do need proper finishing before fitting and more ongoing maintenance to remain functional for security and energy efficiency.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

All edges should be sealed correctly and exposure levels need to be considered. If a timber door is regularly exposed to extreme weather or in a coastal area, that door is likely to age more quickly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Composite External Doors<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Composite doors<\/a> on the other hand, are built from a mix of materials to improve strength, insulation and weather resistance. They\u2019re a practical choice for front doors<\/a> and an increasingly popular one for rental properties and jobs where the customer wants security and low maintenance without too much aftercare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The strong thermal performance of composite doors makes them a popular choice and with reinforced options, including steel and GRP, can also improve durability against harsh weather conditions and resistance to forced entry. If a composite door isn’t within budget though, uPVC doors suit many homeowners who want a low-maintenance and low cost option for busy households.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aluminium External Doors<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

When it comes to back doors, aluminium patio doors<\/a> are particularly popular for extensions, garden rooms and modern kitchen diners. Aluminium is super lightweight but also strong enough to support larger glazed areas, which makes them especially useful for sliding and bifold systems.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When specifying aluminium, it\u2019s worth checking for thermally broken frames, Low-E glazing, suitable weather ratings and secure locking. To level up security ratings, look for those doors that are certified as Part Q compliant<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What does thermally broken mean on aluminium doors?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

A thermally broken frame includes an insulating barrier within the frame to reduce heat transfer. This helps improve energy efficiency and reduces cold bridging.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Door Finishes: Match the Finish to the Job<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

The finish you choose affects time on site, durability and customer satisfaction. It\u2019s worth agreeing this early, because \u201cI thought it came ready to fit\u201d is not a conversation anyone wants halfway through the job.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unfinished doors<\/a> offer flexibility because they can be stained, painted or finished however you want to suit the project. They\u2019re useful where the customer wants to match existing woodwork, but they need more time and proper finishing on all edges.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Primed doors<\/a> however come with a base coat (typically white, black or grey) and are ready for final painting. They\u2019re a good middle ground for painted interiors, especially where decorators are already involved. It\u2019s important customers understand that primed does not mean fully finished.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Prefinished doors<\/a> take it one step further and arrive factory-finished and ready to install. They can save a huge amount of time on site and that standardised finish means more consistency across multiple doors, which is especially useful for whole-house replacements and tight turnaround jobs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Matt explains: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

\u201cPrefinished doors are definitely handy when the job needs to move quickly. You\u2019re not waiting around for coats of paint or varnish to dry and the customer gets a more consistent result across the house.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Are prefinished doors worth it?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Yes, absolutely! Prefinished doors are often the best choice where speed and consistency matter on site. They reduce time on site and usually give a cleaner, more even result than if you were hand-finishing several doors individually. That\u2019s not to say they can\u2019t be hand finished later down the line though if the customer fancies a change.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Glazed Doors: Useful When Light Flow Matters<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Glazed doors are a good option when a customer wants more natural light without removing separation between rooms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

They\u2019re often used between hallways and living rooms, kitchens and dining areas, or home offices where the room still needs to feel connected. Clear glass works well for shared living spaces, while frosted, reeded or obscure glass can help where privacy is needed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If the door is fire-rated, the glazing must also be suitable for the fire rating. You can\u2019t treat standard glass and fire-rated glass as interchangeable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Are glazed internal doors a good idea?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Yes, if the property needs more light. They can make darker hallways and living spaces feel brighter while still separating rooms. For bedrooms, bathrooms or offices, consider privacy glass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Door Styles: Keep It Practical<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Style matters, but most customers want something that looks right, lasts well and doesn\u2019t date too quickly. The right style should suit the property’s architecture and, where appropriate, glazed panels can help bring in natural light which will help improve the overall impression of a home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

White primed doors are a safe option for a new build, rental refurbs and modern interiors because they\u2019re versatile, easy to paint and work with most decor styles, especially in modern homes with a more modern design style.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Oak internal doors are a top tier choice for family homes, more traditional properties and higher-spec renovations as they instantly add warmth and usually feel more substantial than basic painted options.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Shaker doors are one of the safest recommendations for residential work because they easily suit both modern and traditional properties. Flush doors can also work well where the customer wants something simple, clean, sleek and unfussy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Black or industrial-style doors can look sharp in extensions, kitchen diners and room divider setups. They\u2019re not right for every home, but used in the right place, they\u2019re great for creating a strong feature without needing too much structural work while still suiting personal style.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It’s also worth thinking about how those doors are configured. Where a standard door leaf that swings out into a space works fine in one area, that might not be the right door in another. Choosing to make a particular door a pocket door or a sliding barn door might work better with the space, so it’s always worth taking into consideration that aspect of it too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sizing: This Is Where Jobs Go Wrong<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Door sizing is one of the easiest places to make a costly mistake.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Whether it’s an internal or external door, check the door height, width, thickness, frame condition, floor levels, swing direction and trimming allowance before ordering because a poor fit can lead to sticking, floor damage, drafts and weaken security.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If replacing like-for-like, measure the existing door as well as the opening, but don\u2019t assume the old door was fitted correctly; use those measurements to decide on the correct size rather than guess. If it\u2019s an external door, also confirm whether it needs to open outwards before ordering.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Older homes, extensions and previous DIY work can often mean non-standard openings, so measuring properly really matters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Standard UK Doors Sizes and Trimming Allowances<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Common UK imperial internal door sizes tend to be 1981mm heights in widths such as 610mm, 686mm, 762mm and 838mm, along with metric sizes such as 2040 x 726mm and 2040 x 826mm. But more often than not, you\u2019ll still need to trim the door for the best fit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The trimming allowance very much matters too. If the product allows 6mm per edge, don\u2019t take 12mm because the frame is awkward in places. Too much trimming can expose the core which will weaken the door or invalidate a fire rating if it\u2019s a fire door.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Matt insists: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

\u201cThe trimming allowance is not a suggestion, it\u2019s an absolute limit. If the product says a certain amount per edge, stick to it. If the opening needs more than that, you need to choose a different size door or a made-to-measure option.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

How much can you trim off an internal door?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

It all depends on the door. Always check the manufacturer\u2019s trimming allowance before cutting as not every door is the same. The trimming allowance can also vary between different door styles within the same range, so don’t assume they’ll all be the same. A fire-rated option won’t be the same as a standard glazed option for example. Taking too much off can damage the door, making it impossible to properly finish, or even affect its certification.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hardware: Small Parts, Potential Big Problems<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Wrong ironmongery can turn a simple fit into an avoidable problem. The right hardware affects overall functionality, not just fit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hinges need to be suitable for the weight of the door. Handles and latches need to suit the backset and door thickness. Locks need to work with the door type and to make sure the customer\u2019s security needs are met. One of the key considerations is matching the hardware to how the door will be used.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fire doors need particular care. The hinges, seals, locks, latches and closers must be suitable for fire resistant doors. Standard hardware isn\u2019t suitable, using standard hardware will completely void any fire rating certification.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Do fire doors need special hinges?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Yes. Fire doors need suitable fire-rated hinges, fitted in the correct number and position according to the door manufacturer\u2019s instructions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Matching Doors Across a Property<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

For whole-house jobs, a matching range can actually make life easier and make the finish look better.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A good matching range gives you solid and glazed options, fire-rated versions where needed, consistent finishes and reliable reordering if you\u2019re doing more than one house. That matters on refurbs, developments and rental properties because one odd door can stand out for all the wrong reasons. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The finish should work with the interior, but also take into consideration nearby furniture and floor space, would a slimline bifold door work better than a standard single leaf? The whole property should feel consistent and considered.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Matching doors are especially useful when you\u2019re working across bedrooms, bathrooms, landings, living spaces and extensions where multiple doors are part of the same visual at once. It keeps the job looking tidy and reduces the chance of customers changing their mind halfway through because something doesn\u2019t line up visually, or a buyer walking away from a sale because they’re already thinking about what they would change.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Common Mistakes to Avoid<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

In our experience, the biggest mistake people make is ordering on appearance alone. A door needs to suit the job, not just the customer\u2019s saved images.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Trimming limits are another common issue. If the opening needs more adjustment than the door allows, don\u2019t force it. Choose another size, sort the frame or look at made-to-measure options.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Frames also get overlooked. A good door in a poor frame will still fit badly. Check the lining, stops, squareness and floor levels before blaming the door.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fire doors are another area where shortcuts can cause massive problems. The correct door leaf matters, but so does the full setup around it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lead times are worth checking early too. A perfect door arriving late is still a problem if the customer expected the job finished by Friday.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Before You Order Doors: A Check List<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Before placing the order, make sure the basics are nailed down: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
  • Door type<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Size<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Thickness<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Opening direction<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Frame condition<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Required trimming<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Finish<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Fire rating<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Glazing<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Hardware<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Stock status and expected delivery date<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

    Choosing the right door doesn\u2019t need to be complicated. It just needs to be checked before the van is loaded and the job is booked in.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Choose the Door That Makes the Job Easier<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
    <\/div>\n\n\n\n

    Our final thoughts? The right door should fit the opening, suit the room, meet the spec and keep the job moving.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    For budget jobs, that might be a simple hollow core or white primed door. For higher spec homes, solid core, oak or prefinished doors may be the smarter choice. For loft conversions, garages and compliance-led work, fire doors need proper attention. For extensions and external openings, weather, security and thermal performance matter just as much as looks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    As Matt always says: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n

    \u201cA good door choice is one you don\u2019t have to keep explaining later. It fits properly, performs properly and does what the job needs it to do.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

    And that\u2019s the long and short of it all. Choose right at the start and the rest of the job runs MUCH cleaner.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Here, we\u2019ll look at which doors suit which jobs, what to check before ordering, where fire doors matter and how to avoid some of the usual traps.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":3222,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[61,60],"tags":[75,68,73,50,11,69,74],"class_list":["post-3221","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-buying-guides","category-trade-tips-installation","tag-external-doors","tag-fire-doors","tag-home-improvements","tag-internal-doors","tag-patio-doors","tag-property-development","tag-property-renovation"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.expressdoorsdirect.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3221","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.expressdoorsdirect.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.expressdoorsdirect.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.expressdoorsdirect.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/5"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.expressdoorsdirect.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3221"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/www.expressdoorsdirect.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3221\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3260,"href":"https:\/\/www.expressdoorsdirect.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3221\/revisions\/3260"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.expressdoorsdirect.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3222"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.expressdoorsdirect.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3221"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.expressdoorsdirect.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3221"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.expressdoorsdirect.co.uk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3221"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}